As the winter chill settles over Cornwall, the bustling crowds of tourists have long departed, leaving the county’s historic churches to stand in serene solitude. This is the perfect time for us at The Update Desk to embark on a chilly tour, exploring the legends, myths, and architectural wonders that lie within these sacred spaces.
Our journey begins at the secluded St Winnow’s parish church, dedicated to a Celtic missionary who, legend has it, neglected the task of milling the monks’ flour in favour of more prayer time. The church’s stained glass windows and handcrafted grindstone offer a glimpse into the lives of those who once walked these hallowed halls.
Travelling upstream, we reach the town of Lostwithiel, once Cornwall’s busiest port. Here, the towering St Bryvyta church in Lanlivery stands as a landmark, its corbels adorned with carved symbols – two lions clutching a stylised “tree of life”, their protruding tongues symbolising a powerful force against evil. Another intriguing image depicts crowned figures holding a young head with flowing locks, set between a severed giant’s head and the flaming sun, hinting at ancient beliefs and respect for seasonal renewal.
Further east, in the Grade I-listed St Marnarch’s church in Lanreath, we are met with a Norman font intricately carved with zigzags, palmettes, and plaits. Remnants of 17th-century benches bear rearing bears, linked to the Grylls and Bere families. Beneath the roof bosses carved with stars, the Tudor rood screen retains fragments of painted saints, while a primitive Green Man sprouts foliage, representing the fertile earth.
Our final stop is the church of St Dominic, where cold winds swirl frost-dried beech leaves into drifts outside the porch. During a sleety shower, a steep rainbow shines against the dark clouds masking Kit Hill. Within the tower, overlooking the looped-up bell ropes, the peaceful gaze of St Dominica and her brother Indract, carrying a Tamar salmon, continues from the west-facing window.
As we bid farewell to these historic sanctuaries, we are left with a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of legends, myths, and architectural wonders that have endured through the centuries, waiting to be discovered by those willing to venture beyond the well-trodden tourist paths.
