In the face of a perceived “meat revival” and the waning popularity of plant-based dining, the vegan community remains resolute in their commitment to ethical and sustainable living. As Veganuary celebrations commence, British journalist Michael Okonkwo examines the complex factors behind the ebb and flow of veganism’s mainstream appeal.
The past year has seen a marked shift in public attitudes towards veganism, with the closure of numerous vegan restaurants in the UK and a stubborn stagnation in the percentage of people identifying as vegan, hovering around just 1%. This trend is not limited to Britain, as the US has also witnessed a “roaring” revival of meat consumption, fuelled in part by the controversial dietary recommendations of Health Secretary RFK Jr.
However, Okonkwo argues that the reasons behind this ebb in veganism’s popularity are multifaceted. The protein-obsessed wellness culture poses a challenge, as plant-based diets can make it more difficult to hit protein goals, while the rise of ultra-processed meat and dairy alternatives raises concerns about their nutritional value.
Moreover, the sense of despair and impotence in the face of the climate crisis may be leading some to abandon their eco-conscious dietary choices, feeling that individual actions are ultimately futile. Okonkwo muses, “People are starting to think it’s too late, so why bother – they might as well be hung for a lamb chop.”
Yet, the journalist remains steadfast in his own veganism, driven not by physical health, but by a desire to maintain his mental wellbeing. “Not supporting ecologically disastrous factory farming, not contributing to the regularly reported acts of abuse and cruelty in the meat industry, and making a – yes, infinitesimally tiny – contribution to cutting carbon emissions helps ward off my sense of impotence, and despair,” he explains.
As the vegan community navigates these shifting trends, Okonkwo encourages his fellow plant-based enthusiasts to remain resolute, drawing strength from the knowledge that their choices, however small, can make a meaningful difference. “Hold on, comrades, keep the mung beans soaking. Our time will come again,” he declares, with a touch of optimism.