As Easter approaches, the age-old tradition of indulging in hot cross buns takes on a modern twist, with an explosion of quirky flavours hitting supermarket shelves. From chocolate to rhubarb and custard, these novelty buns challenge the classic recipe. But how do they fare against their traditional counterparts? Lucy Knight embarked on a taste test of 25 unconventional varieties to find out which buns rise to the occasion and which fall flat.
A Flourishing Variety
Hot cross buns, typically enjoyed on Good Friday, are no longer confined to their traditional spiced fruit recipe. In fact, they appear in shops as early as January, and the definition of a hot cross bun has broadened to include any enriched-dough creation topped with a flour cross. Marks & Spencer’s food hall showcases a vibrant array of “red velvet” buns, while Tesco boasts over ten different varieties this year, including a tear-and-share brioche. This surge in creativity has some purists raising their eyebrows, but food reviewer Becca Stock suggests that these innovative options deserve to be viewed as distinct products. “For me, they sit in different categories,” she states.
Chocolate Bonanza
Chocolate-infused hot cross buns are a staple among the novelty options. Supermarkets have embraced this trend, with many offering chocolate variants. However, these tend to forgo dried fruit in favour of chocolate chips, which disappointed some, including Charles Banks from the food trends agency thefoodpeople. “Chocolate and raisins are a great combination,” he argues, while noting that chocolate buns cater to those who prefer to avoid dried fruit altogether.
Among the contenders, Waitrose’s No 1 Belgian chocolate hot cross buns (£2 for two) received a lukewarm reception, scoring a 5 out of 10 for their sophisticated dark chocolate flavour. Tesco’s Finest triple chocolate version, however, was deemed too sweet and sticky, landing a mere 4 out of 10. In contrast, Waitrose’s milk chocolate and fudge option (£2 for four), which Stock praised, scored a solid 7 out of 10 for its proper chocolatey taste.
Citrus Sensations
Citrus flavours also make a splash, with many buns attempting to add a zesty twist. Waitrose’s white chocolate and lemon buns (£2 for four) fell short, exhibiting a mild lemon flavour and a lack of white chocolate essence, earning just a 3 out of 10. Asda’s Exceptional lemon and white chocolate variety performed slightly better, scoring 4 out of 10 for its creaminess. Meanwhile, Morrisons’ lemon drizzle buns (£1.80 for four) maintained the classic raisin inclusion but were described as simply extra-lemony, achieving a 5 out of 10.
The Sweet and the Savoury
Not all buns are sweet; some take a daring savoury route. M&S’s cheesy cheddar and red Leicester hot cross buns (£2.90 for four) provided a delightful break from the sweetness, resembling a cheese scone and scoring a respectable 6 out of 10. However, the Aldi Mighty cheesy option was less successful, marred by an artificial cheese flavour, earning just 3 out of 10.
In the fruit category, Asda’s cherry bakewell hot cross buns (£1.77 for four) were noted for their uncanny resemblance to the classic tart, receiving a 5 out of 10. In contrast, Tesco’s strawberries and clotted cream version (£2 for four) was overwhelmingly sweet, leading to a disappointing 3 out of 10.
The Standouts
Among the myriad of flavours, a few buns shone brightly. M&S’s granny smith apple hot cross buns (£2.90 for four) earned high praise for their perfectly balanced spices and tangy apple chunks, attaining an impressive 9 out of 10. Similarly, Tesco’s Finest brown butter and chai tea hot cross buns (£2.25 for two) were lauded for their unique flavour profile, mirroring traditional spices while introducing a delightful chai twist, also scoring a 9 out of 10.
Why it Matters
The growing trend of novelty hot cross buns reflects not only a shift in consumer preferences but also the evolving landscape of British traditions. As supermarkets continue to innovate, they challenge our perceptions of classic foods, blending tradition with modern culinary creativity. While some flavours tantalise the taste buds, others remind us of the enduring charm of the original recipe. This culinary exploration not only caters to diverse palates but also sparks conversations about food culture, heritage, and the joy of seasonal indulgence. As we embrace these new offerings, the spirit of Easter remains alive, inviting us to celebrate with both novelty and tradition.
