In a dazzling showcase that epitomises the brand’s signature flair, Dolce & Gabbana took to the Milan catwalk on Saturday with an eye-catching collection that celebrated the essence of ‘la dolce vita’. The show, a striking display of flamboyance and sensuality, comes at a time when the iconic Italian house grapples with financial hurdles and internal transformations, all while aiming to captivate its audience.
A Bold Return to Form
The SS27 menswear collection marked a pivotal moment for Dolce & Gabbana, being the first since the controversial all-white casting earlier this year, which sparked widespread criticism. With Stefano Gabbana stepping down as chair of the company he co-founded with Domenico Dolce in 1985, the brand is now navigating a hefty £391 million debt load. Despite these challenges, Saturday’s catwalk was a vibrant reminder of what the fashion house does best: excess.
Models strutted down the runway in an array of eye-popping outfits that featured clingy muscle vests and daring micro shorts that made even the briefest of shorts seem reserved. Some models embraced boldness by going topless, while others showcased jeans adorned with rips, jewels, and vibrant prints depicting Sicilian lemons and ancient amphitheatres. The collection’s audacious spirit served as a counterbalance to the brand’s current struggles, drawing attention away from financial woes and management changes.
Navigating Turbulent Waters
In the wake of Gabbana’s resignation last December, the company appointed former Gucci chief executive Stefano Cantino as co-CEO, working alongside Alfonso Dolce, Domenico’s brother. While Gabbana retains his role as co-creative director, the reshuffle underscores the brand’s efforts to adapt in a challenging luxury market. Recent reports suggest that Dolce & Gabbana is considering a potential sale and leaseback of several properties in Milan as part of its negotiations with creditors, highlighting the urgency of their situation.
Despite the financial strain, Dolce & Gabbana continues to attract the glitz and glamour of Hollywood, with stars like Colman Domingo, Patrick Schwarzenegger, and Ryan Gosling frequently donning their creations. Saturday’s show was not merely about fashion; it was a bold statement of resilience in the face of adversity.
Tailoring Trends: Paul Smith’s Refreshing Approach
Later in the day, British designer Paul Smith also took to the Milan stage, showcasing his mastery of suiting. As a prominent figure in menswear since 2025, Smith noted a burgeoning trend among younger consumers who are eager to distance themselves from the casual styles of their parents, particularly those associated with the pandemic.
“A lot of our customers grew up with their dads wearing hoodies during the pandemic,” Smith remarked, observing a shift towards a desire for smarter attire. He pointed to Harry Styles as an example of this transition, highlighting the pop star’s move from flamboyant stage outfits to refined tailoring.
Smith’s collection featured innovative designs that challenge traditional notions of formalwear. With relaxed fits, unbuttoned waistcoats, and shirts styled untucked, he aims to redefine how men perceive suits, moving beyond the confines of formal occasions. His designs incorporate lightweight fabrics that resist creasing, along with unique details—such as crocodile eye buttons—that add a touch of personality.
Why it Matters
The Milan Fashion Week showcases not just the latest trends but also the resilience of iconic brands in a shifting luxury landscape. Dolce & Gabbana’s audacious display serves as a testament to the enduring appeal of extravagance, even amidst financial challenges. Meanwhile, Paul Smith’s emphasis on tailored suits reflects a broader cultural shift among younger generations, illustrating how fashion continues to evolve in response to societal changes. As these designers navigate their respective paths, their collections remind us that, in the world of fashion, creativity and innovation remain paramount, no matter the circumstances.
