Gel manicures have become a staple in many people’s beauty routines, offering a long-lasting, chip-free finish that can last for several weeks. However, recent insights from experts suggest that the allure of these glossy nails may come with hidden risks. Podiatrist Margaret Dabbs OBE warns that while gel manicures can be beautiful, they may be doing more harm to our nails than we realise.
The Double-Edged Sword of Gel Manicures
For many, the promise of a gel manicure is irresistible—who wouldn’t want perfectly polished nails that last? Yet, beneath the shiny surface lies a pressing concern regarding the potential long-term damage to nail health. Dabbs explains that the issues often stem not from the gels themselves, but rather from the application and removal processes. “There are many horror stories associated with gel manicures,” she states, highlighting complications that can arise from both salon and DIY treatments.
The problems can include inflammation, heightened sensitivity around the nail bed, and even infections. “This often results from the quality of products used, the application technique, and crucially, how the gel is removed,” she adds. The takeaway? It’s not the gel that is inherently harmful; rather, it’s the way we treat our nails before, during, and after the manicure.
Understanding the Damage
Gel and builder-in-a-bottle (BIAB) manicures require meticulous preparation. Nails are buffed to ensure proper adhesion, and then cured under UV or LED lamps—a process that, while effective, can weaken the nails over time. “The combination of over-buffing, acetone exposure, and scraping during removal strips the nails of natural oils, leading to dryness and brittleness,” Dabbs explains.
This cycle of application and removal without breaks can leave nails feeling thin and fragile. As this routine continues, nails may become increasingly susceptible to peeling and breakage, compounding the damage with age.
How Often Is Too Often?
While there’s no strict guideline on how frequently one can safely indulge in gel manicures, experts advise caution against consecutive appointments. Dabbs suggests, “To minimise damage, it’s best to have gels removed professionally and to give your nails regular breaks. Even a short pause of a couple of weeks can allow your nails to recuperate.”
During these breaks, nourishing your nails is vital. A quality cuticle oil can restore moisture and flexibility, significantly improving nail health.
Avoiding Common Pitfalls
One of the most detrimental habits is peeling off gel nails. It may be tempting to remove a lifting corner, but this practice can be extremely harmful, stripping away layers of the natural nail. Dabbs urges a gentler approach: “Practice careful nail care. Avoid aggressive filing or using harsh instruments, and steer clear of acetone remover or metal tools for gel removal.”
If you choose to remove gels at home, patience is critical. Soaking nails properly and gently easing the product away is far safer than trying to force it off. Regular visits to a skilled nail technician can also ensure that the removal process is handled with care, preserving the integrity of your nails.
Healthier Alternatives for Long-Lasting Nails
For those who adore the polished look but wish to minimise damage, there are alternative methods to achieve beautiful nails without the risks associated with gels. Dabbs recommends ditching traditional emery boards for high-quality crystal nail files, which promote healthy growth and prevent splitting.
Hydration is equally essential; keeping the nail bed and cuticles moisturised can significantly enhance nail strength. Additionally, if you opt for polish, choose a base coat designed to promote growth and resilience.
Awareness of ingredients is also crucial. Dabbs cautions against traditional nail formulas that contain harmful chemicals, such as trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), which has been banned in the EU due to safety concerns but remains legal in the UK.
Why it Matters
The popularity of gel manicures shows no signs of waning, but understanding the potential risks associated with them is crucial for maintaining nail health. By adopting safer practices and being mindful of how often we engage in these treatments, we can enjoy beautiful nails without compromising their integrity. As awareness grows, so does the opportunity to redefine our grooming habits, ensuring that our beauty routines enhance rather than harm our natural beauty.