The men’s fashion landscape is currently locked in a sartorial showdown that has little to do with trophies and everything to do with style. As the US Open rages on, players like Roger Federer and Carlos Alcaraz aren’t just battling serves and returns – they’re waging a quiet war over wardrobe choices that mirror a broader cultural divide in menswear. On one side stands the “dad” aesthetic: crisp lines, muted tones, and an almost architectural approach to dressing. On the other, the “dude” movement embraces baggier silhouettes, bold adornments, and a deliberate rejection of convention. It’s a fashion fork in the road that reveals as much about contemporary masculinity as it does about tennis fashion.
The Dad Look: Sharp Lines, Quiet Luxury
When Novak Djokovic steps onto the court in a perfectly tailored polo and matching sweatbands, he’s delivering more than just athletic performance – he’s championing a philosophy of menswear that prioritises precision over pretension. This “dad” aesthetic, as Hikmat Mohammed, men’s fashion editor, explains it, is about “straight, tight lines” and “muted colours” chosen for function rather than fuss. It’s the look that sees David Beckham in impeccably fitted three-piece suits, Idris Elba in understated evening wear, and Andy Burnham opting for a crisp shirt over a flashy jacket.
The beauty of this style lies in its accessibility and its evolution from the rather tired “normcore” approach. While traditional dad style might have meant dad sneakers and ill-fitting chinos, the modern iteration embraces luxury fabrics and thoughtful construction. Mark Zuckerberg’s appearance in caramel-hued cashmere at a Prada show exemplified this shift – it’s about elevated basics that cost thousands but look effortlessly put-together. John Lewis’s menswear lookbook, now brimming with sensible overcoats and cashmere cardigans, reflects this trend’s mainstream penetration.
Jacqui Markham, fashion creative director, notes that “a lot of what we’re calling ‘dad style’ is really just great menswear fundamentals rediscovered.” The data backs this up: searches for “elevated wardrobe staples” have surged, with particular interest in “polo shirts with proper collars” and “chinos that actually fit.” Even tailoring is experiencing a renaissance, with sales up 17% this year, making it one of the fastest-growing menswear categories.
The Dude Movement: Baggy Silhouettes and Bold Statements
If the dad look is about refinement through restraint, the dude aesthetic is about expression through excess. It’s the realm of Adam Sandler’s deliberately chaotic ensembles, Brad Pitt’s September Esquire cover in a red shirt with hot-pink neckerchief, and the street-savvy likes of Justin Bieber, whose Skylrk brand champions baggy hoodies and shorts with unapologetic flair. “It’s more street wear. It’s more relaxed, it’s more fun, it’s more colourful,” Mohammed observes, describing a philosophy that embraces adornment for its own sake.
This movement finds its DNA in brands like Chrome Hearts, beloved by Timothée Chalamet, and vintage pieces that have taken on the status of collectibles. “It’s like having a blue chip painting in your house,” Mohammed muses, highlighting how certain dude-style items have transcended mere clothing to become cultural artifacts. The aesthetic isn’t about laziness – it’s about calculated nonchalance, a deliberate rejection of the polished in favour of the provocative.
Daniel Craig’s transformation from sharp-suited conservative to chaotic Loewe ambassador illustrates how the dude aesthetic can be a conscious artistic statement rather than an accident. At 62, Craig proved that this style isn’t bound by age or tradition, challenging the notion that such bold choices are reserved for the young or the reckless.
Beyond Binary: Where Harry Styles Fits In
The most fascinating aspect of this fashion divide is how fluid it actually is. Harry Styles perfectly embodies the spectrum, wearing “dad”-style suits with “dude” energy through billowing white shirts and loose cuts, while also sporting “dude”-style shorts with “dad” sensibilities via sensible loafers. JFK Jr. operated in both worlds too – “out of hours he was dude but when he was working that was ‘dad,'” Mohammed explains.
This blurring of boundaries suggests that the real shift isn’t generational but intentional. Ben Hewitt, brand director at Hawes & Curtis, points out that the movement toward dad style is “no longer generational, it’s about intentional dressing, whether dressing for the working week or downtime.” It’s about context and choice rather than age or social expectation.
The Economics of Style: Privilege in the Dressing Room
Of course, the ability to navigate these different style territories isn’t equally distributed. “Who feels comfortable – and who is able – to dress like a dude is complicated,” Mohammed admits. There’s a financial barrier to entry: while a grey suit from Reiss or Marks & Spencer is accessible to many, achieving authentic dude style often requires hunting down vintage pieces or investing in niche streetwear brands. These items can become “memorabilia” with price tags that dwarf their practical value.
The privilege question extends beyond cost to confidence. The dad aesthetic offers a certain safety net – it’s professional, it’s acceptable, it says “I know what I’m doing.” The dude approach demands more courage. It requires navigating social judgment and financial investment, particularly for those building their wardrobes from scratch.
Why it Matters
This sartorial schism between dad and dude styles reflects deeper cultural currents about masculinity, class, and self-expression in the 2020s. As menswear finally catches up to women’s fashion in terms of embracing quiet luxury and personal style, we’re witnessing a moment where men have unprecedented freedom to define themselves through clothing. Yet this freedom comes with new complexities – questions of authenticity, accessibility, and social capital. The tennis courts may be where we first notice these differences, but they’re playing out across workplaces, social media feeds, and living rooms worldwide. In a post-pandemic world hungry for both stability and reinvention, understanding these style choices offers a window into how men are redefining themselves for an uncertain future. Whether through the precise lines of a perfectly fitted blazer or the liberating bagginess of an oversized hoodie, these choices aren’t just about looking good – they’re about feeling seen, understood, and authentically oneself in an increasingly complex world.
