Seoul’s Michelin‑starred Evett fined for ant‑topped dessert

Sophie Laurent, Europe Correspondent
5 Min Read
⏱️ 4 min read

South Korea’s western district court has handed down fines to the operator and chief executive of Evett, a celebrated two‑Michelin‑star restaurant in Seoul’s Gangnam district, after it served a dessert crowned with ants that are not authorised for consumption under local food safety law. The judge, Lee Se‑chang, described the offence as “by no means light”, noting the duration of the practice, its use in marketing and laboratory findings of excessive heavy metals in the insects. Both the company and its chief executive, Ginny Kim, have seven days to lodge an appeal.

The court fined the restaurant operator 10 million won (approximately £5,400) and its chief executive 15 million won. Prosecutors had originally pushed for a one‑year prison term for Kim and a 20 million won fine against the business. Judge Lee Se‑chang stressed that the violation was serious, citing the length of time the ant‑topped sorbet remained on the menu – from April 2021 until January 2025 – and the restaurant’s promotional use of the dish. He also pointed to tests that revealed heavy‑metal levels above the permitted thresholds in the imported ants.

Kim, who is registered as the company’s chief executive and is the wife of Australian chef Joseph Lidgerwood, admitted the offence but had no prior record under food‑safety legislation. Lidgerwood, the public face of Evett and a former contestant on Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars, was not charged because legal responsibility falls on the registered operator under South Korean law.

Culinary context and regulatory gap

Ants are routinely used as ingredients in the United States and Europe, and Evett’s staff appeared unaware that South Korea treats them differently. Under the country’s food safety statute only ten insect species – grasshoppers, mealworms, silkworm pupae and a few others – are approved for human consumption. Any business wishing to employ an unapproved insect must first secure temporary approval from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, a step Evett did not take.

Culinary context and regulatory gap

The prosecution revealed that the restaurant imported dried ants from the United States and Thailand by mail, placing three to five of them on a sorbet made with sikhye, a traditional sweet rice drink. Lawyers estimated that the dessert was served to roughly 12,274 customers, consuming about 49,096 ants and generating around 120 million won in revenue. They also noted that only about 60 % of diners accepted the ant topping when it was offered, a figure disputed by the defence.

Public reaction and broader implications

The case emerged after ministry officials noticed mentions of the ant‑laden dessert in blog posts and social‑media updates, prompting an investigation. While insect eating is not unfamiliar in South Korea – steamed silkworm pupae, known as beondegi, have long been a street‑food snack – the legal framework remains strict regarding which species may be marketed as food. Evett’s defence highlighted that restaurants in Denmark, the United Kingdom and Australia routinely incorporate ants into their menus, underscoring the disparity between international culinary trends and domestic regulations.

The fines serve as a reminder to gastronomic establishments that innovation must align with local safety standards, even when ingredients are commonplace elsewhere.

Why it Matters

The ruling underscores South Korea’s rigorous approach to food safety, signalling that even high‑profile, Michelin‑recognised venues are not exempt from compliance. For the global restaurant industry, the case highlights the necessity of verifying regulatory status before introducing novel ingredients, particularly those that are accepted abroad but restricted at home. As diners increasingly seek adventurous experiences, chefs and operators must balance creativity with legal diligence to avoid penalties that can damage reputation and finances. The outcome may encourage clearer communication between authorities and culinary professionals, fostering a safer environment for both innovation and consumer trust.

Why it Matters
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Sophie Laurent covers European affairs with expertise in EU institutions, Brexit implementation, and continental politics. Born in Lyon and educated at Sciences Po Paris, she is fluent in French, German, and English. She previously worked as Brussels correspondent for France 24 and maintains an extensive network of EU contacts.
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