In an era where hybrid working has reshaped our dining habits, lunch options have taken a surprising turn towards extravagance. Premium salad bowls, now priced at £15 and above, are enticing professionals who seek both health and indulgence during their midday breaks. But as this new culinary trend flourishes, questions arise: are these gourmet salads genuinely nutritious, or merely a costly evolution of the traditional meal deal?
A Shift in Lunchtime Norms
Gone are the days of the humble £3 meal deal, which offered a sandwich, crisps, and a drink for a price that barely registered on the wallet. A recent visit to Pret a Manger revealed a staggering selection of salad bowls, most hovering around the £15 mark. While these meals may appear abundant and health-conscious, the hefty price tag raises eyebrows. What has led to this dramatic increase in lunchtime costs?
This trend transcends individual restaurants. New establishments like atis and Honest Greens are attracting a clientele keen on healthier options, while Farmer J transforms school-canteen classics into chic, gourmet experiences. Even Whole Foods has leveraged this shift, offering a build-your-own salad bar that can quickly escalate in price. The Salad Project, a London-based venture launched in 2021, serves around 4,000 salads daily, with some reaching upwards of £20. Clearly, this isn’t just a fad; it represents a significant shift in the lunch economy.
The Evolution of Salads
Today’s salads are a far cry from the limp lettuce and sad toppings of the past. They are now vibrant, flavourful, and often packed with ingredients like roasted vegetables, spiced seeds, and hearty grains. According to Waitrose’s Food & Drink Report for 2025, there has been a notable resurgence in the popularity of fibre, healthy fats, and complex carbohydrates. People are increasingly willing to invest in their health, opting for nutrient-dense meals rather than cheaper, less nutritious options.
However, one must consider how healthy these salads truly are. Take, for instance, Pret’s miso salmon bowl, priced at £14.95. It boasts an impressive ingredient list, but delivers a hefty 761 calories, with significant fat and carbohydrate content. Atis’s High Steaks bowl, featuring garlic-butter steak and roasted potatoes, comes in at a similar calorie count. These meals, while nutritious, challenge the notion of what a light lunch should be.
The Price of Portion Distortion
Nutritionist Jo Travers highlights a critical issue: the portion sizes of these salads have grown disproportionately large. While these bowls are filled with whole foods, the sheer volume can lead to a calorie intake that far exceeds what is necessary. She points out that a fist-sized portion of grains is typically sufficient, yet many patrons unknowingly opt for much larger servings, leading to spikes in blood sugar and subsequent energy crashes.
This phenomenon contributes to the familiar post-lunch slump many experience. The key, Travers explains, lies in the composition of the meal. Salads predominantly made from vegetables typically won’t cause the same fatigue as those heavy with grains or starches. Yet, the perception of salads as “healthy” can obscure the reality of their calorie density.
A New Definition of Lunch
The changing landscape of lunch reflects broader societal shifts. With fewer days spent in the office, many employees are willing to splurge when they do dine out. This change in behaviour has led to a redefinition of what constitutes a reasonable lunch, as health, value, and indulgence converge into one oversized bowl of salad.
Once a symbol of healthy eating, salad has transformed into a luxurious, and sometimes absurd, choice. No longer just a means to an end, it has become an experience — one that can set you back £15 and leave you contemplating the merits of your midday meal.
Why it Matters
The evolution of the salad from a simple meal to a gourmet experience speaks to our changing attitudes towards food and health. As we navigate the complexities of modern dining, the impact of these new lunch norms extends beyond our waistlines and wallets. Understanding the implications of our choices not only influences our personal health but also shapes the broader food economy and our relationship with indulgence. As we embrace this new era of lunch, it is essential to strike a balance between health, satisfaction, and affordability.
