Emerald Fennell’s much-anticipated adaptation of Emily Brontë’s classic novel *Wuthering Heights* has ignited a heated debate among critics and fashion enthusiasts alike, as its bold costume design strays far from historical norms. Set to grace cinemas this weekend, the film has been the talk of the town since the first images surfaced, showcasing an eccentric blend of styles that some are calling scandalous.
A Daring Departure from Tradition
The film’s costume designer, Jacqueline Durran, is no stranger to pushing boundaries. In a recent interview with *Vogue*, she stated, “We’re not representing a moment in time at all.” This perspective has led to an avant-garde aesthetic where Cathy’s wedding gown resembles a futuristic gift wrap, crafted from a material that evokes cellophane. Durran has drawn inspiration from an eclectic mix of influences, including the likes of Thierry Mugler and Alexander McQueen, alongside traditional European styles from various eras.
The intention behind this creative liberty is to enhance storytelling rather than adhere strictly to historical accuracy. Durran’s vision aims to encapsulate the emotional landscape of the characters, with costume choices that provoke thought and evoke feelings, rather than serve as a history lesson.
The Rise of Anachronistic Fashion in Film
Wuthering Heights is not an isolated case in the realm of period dramas. It joins a growing movement that favours imaginative interpretation over strict adherence to the past. Other recent films, such as Yorgos Lanthimos’ *Poor Things* and Guillermo del Toro’s *Frankenstein*, have similarly embraced modern materials and unconventional designs, reflecting a collective shift in the costume design landscape.
Kate Hawley, who garnered acclaim for her work on *Frankenstein*, admits that her designs also flirt with historical accuracy. “It’s about playing with the period,” she explains, emphasising the use of unconventional materials like plastic and latex to challenge traditional perceptions. This playful approach has opened the door to a broader conversation about what costume design can represent—an artistic expression rather than a mere replication of history.
The ‘Bridgerton Effect’ and the Quest for Escapism
The emergence of modern elements in period dramas has roots in various influences, notably the cultural phenomenon that is *Bridgerton*. Keith Lodwick, a historian with a keen eye on costume trends, attributes much of the current movement to the escapism provided by the hit series, which premiered during the pandemic. “Timing is everything,” he notes, suggesting that audiences are craving fantasy and diversion during challenging times.
As viewers seek refuge in elaborate costumes and vibrant settings, the allure of a more expressive design has never been stronger. Yet, this trend has not been without its critics. Helen Walter, a visual historian, cautions against overestimating the significance of these changes, arguing that costume design has always been a reflection of contemporary culture rather than a strict reproduction of the past.
A Balancing Act between Artistic Expression and Historical Integrity
While many celebrate the creative liberties taken by costume designers, there is an ongoing debate about the role of accuracy in storytelling. Oscar-winning designer Sandy Powell, who crafted the costumes for *Shakespeare in Love*, reflects on the challenges of achieving period authenticity. “Every period thinks that they’re doing the period, but they never really are,” she muses, highlighting the inherent complexities involved in costume design.
The conversation inevitably raises questions about audience connection. While some argue that modern costumes help contemporary viewers engage with historical narratives, others, like Waddington, believe that immersing audiences in authentic representations of the past provides a unique opportunity for cultural exploration—akin to time travel.
Why it Matters
The bold choices made in *Wuthering Heights* and similar productions challenge our understanding of historical narratives and the ways in which they are visually represented. As costume designers continue to experiment with anachronism, they invite audiences to engage with the past in innovative ways, blending the boundaries between history and imagination. This creative evolution not only reflects current cultural sentiments but also paves the way for future stories, encouraging an ongoing dialogue about the role of art in interpreting our shared human experience.
