The gastronomic landscape of South Korea is undergoing a remarkable transformation, largely thanks to Netflix’s popular cooking competition series “Culinary Class Wars.” Renowned chefs are witnessing a surge in interest from diners, with a marked shift in their engagement and expectations. This newfound appreciation for fine dining not only elevates the culinary arts but also showcases the rich cultural tapestry of Korean cuisine.
The Evolution of Dining in Seoul
Thirteen years ago, when Chef Jun Lee opened the doors to SOIGNÉ in the heart of Seoul, introducing the concept of fine dining was met with a steep learning curve. His establishment, known for its exclusive tasting menu, often attracted patrons who were more accustomed to à la carte dining. “Many people either didn’t know this culture existed or weren’t particularly interested,” Lee reflected, noting that guests would frequently inquire about the length of the meal or request alternative options.
Today, however, conversations have shifted dramatically. Diners are now eager to delve into the flavour profiles and cooking methods behind each dish. “The style of their questions has more depth,” Lee observed, suggesting a growing sophistication among his clientele.
The Impact of “Culinary Class Wars”
The catalyst for this culinary renaissance can be traced back to Netflix’s “Culinary Class Wars,” which has captivated audiences since its debut. In its second season, the show not only features established “white spoon” chefs, including Michelin-starred luminaries, but also empowers “black spoon” challengers. Since its release in December, the series has dominated Netflix’s Global Top 10 Non-English TV list, holding steady for five consecutive weeks and prompting the announcement of a third season.
Tei Yong, CEO of CATCHTABLE, South Korea’s premier restaurant reservation platform, remarked on the unprecedented interest generated by the show. “I never imagined a single TV show could generate this level of interest in gastronomy,” he said. Following the first season, a pop-up event organised by Seoul’s Metropolitan Government attracted overwhelming attention, with nearly 450,000 eager diners vying for just 150 reservations—each spot hotly contested by approximately 3,000 hopefuls.
Chefs Embrace Their Newfound Fame
The impact of the show on individual chefs has been nothing short of transformative. Chef Kim Sung-woon, who runs Table for Four, reported that reservations have tripled since his appearance on the show. His restaurant now receives about 100 calls a day, a volume so high that staff struggle to keep up. “I feel like a celebrity,” he confessed, noting the influx of fan mail, including letters from young admirers.
Chef Lee has experienced similar fame, with an increase in requests for collaborations and a marked shift in the demographics of his diners. “Before the show, foreigners made up the majority of our reservations,” he noted. “Now South Korean customers book so quickly that foreign visitors often can’t get tables.”
Redefining Korean Cuisine
One of the critical discussions sparked by the series revolves around the essence of Korean cuisine. Chef Lee asserts that simply incorporating traditional ingredients like kimchi does not inherently make a dish Korean. “Korean food culture isn’t about specific recipes—it’s the accumulated lifestyle habits people have created,” he explained.
Chefs like Lee are forging a path that blends traditional Korean elements with techniques learned abroad, particularly from his time in New York’s culinary scene. His signature dish, Hanwoo and Banchans, showcases top-quality beef accompanied by a selection of seasonal Korean side dishes. “In Korean culture, without banchan, a meal feels incomplete,” he elaborated, emphasising the cultural significance of these accompaniments.
A Bright Future, But Challenges Ahead
The growing interest in fine dining coincides with a broader initiative by the South Korean government to promote Korean cuisine globally, a campaign that has been in motion since the late 2000s. Jihyung Andrew Kim, a culinary arts professor, noted that while significant groundwork has been laid, platforms like Netflix have accelerated the globalisation of Korean food, particularly among younger audiences who thrive on shareable dining experiences.
Yet, despite this wave of enthusiasm, challenges persist. Chef Kim highlighted the ongoing staff shortages in the industry, a lingering effect of the COVID-19 pandemic. “For fine dining to truly develop, we need service teams to grow alongside chefs,” he stressed.
As Chef Lee pointed out, the competitive landscape for Korean fine dining has intensified, but he remains optimistic. “If the market hadn’t broadened through Netflix and the show, it would have been a much more difficult environment,” he said, hinting at the bright future ahead for the culinary scene.
Why it Matters
The rise of South Korea’s fine dining sector, fuelled by cultural shows like “Culinary Class Wars,” not only enriches the culinary landscape but also fosters a deeper understanding and appreciation of Korean heritage. As chefs redefine their craft and engage a curious public, the global culinary stage is becoming increasingly vibrant with the flavours and traditions of Korea, paving the way for a new era of gastronomic exploration.
