In a historic first for London Fashion Week, British-Yemeni designer Kazna Asker seamlessly blended the spirit of Ramadan with high fashion during her captivating presentation, “Hour of the Sunset.” Asker paused her showcase at sunset to share an iftar meal with the models and guests, marking a significant moment in the fashion industry that reflects inclusivity and cultural representation.
A Celebration of Culture
This year, the British Fashion Council officially recognised Ramadan as part of the London Fashion Week agenda, a move that highlights the growing diversity within the fashion world. On Monday evening, Asker’s show not only showcased her distinctive designs but also served as a platform to honour the traditions of fasting and communal breaking of the fast. “As soon as I found out that fashion week would fall during Ramadan, I knew I had to incorporate it,” Asker shared in her London studio. “This collection was built around the themes of Ramadan.”
Transforming the British Fashion Council’s NewGen space into a welcoming majlis, or Arab living room, Asker drew inspiration from her grandmother’s home. Guests sat on cushions reminiscent of traditional Yemeni gatherings, where meals are enjoyed together on the floor. This intimate setting was chosen to foster a sense of community, making the iftar a shared experience for all present.
A Unique Presentation
As twilight descended, the atmosphere shifted. The instrumental Arab soundtrack softened, the lights dimmed, and woven baskets filled with dates and water were passed around. Sudanese-Australian writer Yassmin Abdel-Magied addressed the audience, reciting Mary Oliver’s poignant poem, “The Sun,” followed by a heartfelt supplication to mark the end of the fast. Models descended from their elevated platforms to partake in the meal, symbolising a moment of unity.
The iftar menu featured an array of Iraqi dishes from Juma Kitchen, alongside Palestinian dates. “It’s going to be wholesome celebrating together,” Asker expressed, ensuring that the meal catered to both her team and the guests, many of whom were fasting. Naailah Khalifa, a guest at the event, echoed Asker’s sentiments, stating, “It’s nice to be in spaces like this one and not feel ‘othered’. It makes me feel hopeful to know that work like hers is happening.”
Fashion with a Message
Asker’s collection was a stunning fusion of tailored garments and innovative silhouettes, rooted in Yemeni cultural dress. Models showcased exquisite gold coin headpieces and intricate body art inspired by henna, courtesy of the collective HuqThat. In a bold move to challenge traditional gender norms, Asker featured a female model adorned with a jambiya, a traditional Yemeni dagger belt typically worn by men, integrated into a contemporary power suit. “We decided to put the jambiya on a woman to showcase the power of Muslim women,” Asker explained.
The designs also included a male model wearing an imamah headwrap embellished with sunset-coloured flowers, drawing influence from the adornments worn by grooms in Yemeni culture. Asker’s journey in fashion began at Central Saint Martins, where she made waves by featuring hijabi models in her 2022 MA showcase, inspired by her desire to bring modest fashion into the mainstream.
Looking Ahead
The event marked a significant milestone, not only for Asker but also for her collaboration with the British Fashion Council as part of the NewGen initiative. “It’s the end of this chapter in my life,” she reflected. “I did everything I’ve wanted to do, and I don’t have any regrets.” Laura Weir, CEO of the British Fashion Council, reaffirmed the importance of diverse expressions within the industry, stating, “LFW isn’t a single-format showcase. It’s a cultural platform designed to support how designers choose to express and show today.”
Asker’s dedication to her roots is evident in her research into cultural dress across various countries, including Egypt, Oman, and India. “Almost everywhere I went, there was a Yemeni community,” she noted, recognising how cultural contexts influence the reinterpretation of traditions. “My community and I already know the spirit of Ramadan,” she stated. “So it’s a blessing to invite people who don’t know what it’s about. I hope they’re immersed in what we feel.”
The evening concluded with a symbolic orange tree at the centre of the room, a tribute to the Persian tale, “The Man Who Planted Trees.” This story illustrates the importance of nurturing future generations, a sentiment that resonates deeply with Asker’s aspirations for her impact on the next wave of designers. “I was able to give it everything I had, and I hope it’s left an impact,” she said.
Why it Matters
Kazna Asker’s innovative presentation at London Fashion Week represents a pivotal moment in the fashion industry, where cultural narratives and traditions are not only acknowledged but celebrated. By integrating Ramadan into her showcase, Asker has opened the door for greater inclusivity, encouraging designers and audiences alike to embrace diversity in all its forms. This event serves as a reminder that fashion can be a platform for dialogue, understanding, and community, fostering connections that transcend cultural boundaries.
