In a remarkable first for London Fashion Week, the sacred observance of Ramadan has been integrated into the fashion showcase, thanks to the innovative vision of British-Yemeni designer Kazna Asker. On Monday evening, Asker paused her presentation at sunset, inviting models, staff, and guests to share in iftar, the meal that breaks the daily fast during this holy month. This unique blend of culture and fashion not only highlights the significance of community but also marks a pivotal moment in the fashion industry’s evolution.
A Celebration of Culture and Community
Kazna Asker, aged 29, has made a bold statement with her presentation titled *Hour of the Sunset*. This event is not merely a fashion show; it embodies the spirit of Ramadan, a month-long period of fasting, spiritual reflection, and communal bonding for Muslims worldwide. Asker explained, “As soon as I found out that fashion week would fall during Ramadan, I knew I had to incorporate it.” Her collection reflects the essence of fasting from dawn until dusk, culminating in the moment of breaking the fast, which she describes as an “energy-shifting” experience.
Transforming the British Fashion Council’s NewGen space into a majlis—a traditional Arab living room—Asker created an inviting atmosphere reminiscent of her grandmother’s home in Yemen. Guests were seated on floor cushions, an appropriate tribute to the communal nature of Yemeni dining, where meals are often shared on the floor. “This arrangement is the best way to break fast together,” Asker noted, emphasising the importance of community in both her culture and her work.
A Unique Iftar Experience
As the evening unfolded, the lively atmosphere transitioned to a moment of reflection. The instrumental music softened, the lights dimmed, and dates along with cans of water were passed around in woven baskets. Sudanese-Australian writer Yassmin Abdel-Magied graced the gathering with a reading of Mary Oliver’s poignant poem *The Sun*, followed by a heartfelt supplication to honour the breaking of the fast. The models, adorned in Asker’s designs, stepped down from their platforms to join in this beautiful moment of communal celebration.
The iftar menu featured delectable Iraqi dishes from Juma Kitchen, complemented by sweet Palestinian dates, ensuring that all attendees—many of whom were fasting—could partake in the feast. Asker expressed her enthusiasm for this unique celebration, stating, “It’s going to be wholesome celebrating together,” perfectly encapsulating the essence of this groundbreaking event.
A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity
Throughout the showcase, models showcased an array of garments that seamlessly fused tailored styles with futuristic silhouettes, all while paying homage to traditional Yemeni attire. Asker’s designs were accentuated with gold coin headpieces and face coverings, while henna-inspired body art by the creative collective HuqThat adorned the models, tracing sun motifs across their skin.
Notably, Asker challenged conventional gender norms by featuring a female model in a jambiya—a traditional Yemeni dagger belt typically worn by men—integrated into a modern power suit. “We decided to put the jambiya on a woman to showcase the power of Muslim women,” she explained. Additionally, a male model sported an imamah headwrap embellished with sunset-hued flowers, drawing inspiration from tribal customs along the Yemeni-Saudi border.
Asker’s journey began at Central Saint Martins, where she made headlines as the first designer to showcase hijabi models during the 2022 MA runway. Her experience growing up in Sheffield, where modest fashion was rarely represented, fuelled her passion for bringing inclusivity to the forefront of the fashion industry.
Looking to the Future
As her presentation marked the conclusion of her time with the British Fashion Council’s NewGen initiative, Asker reflected on the impact of this moment. “It’s the end of the day and the end of this chapter in my life. I did everything I’ve wanted to do and don’t have any regrets,” she shared, a sentiment that resonates deeply with her approach to design.
Laura Weir, CEO of the British Fashion Council, praised Asker’s showcase as a testament to the evolving nature of London Fashion Week, stating, “It’s a cultural platform designed to support how designers choose to express and show today.” Asker’s commitment to exploring cultural dress across various regions, from Egypt to India, highlights her dedication to understanding and celebrating diversity within the fashion landscape.
An orange tree, symbolising the Persian folklore tale *The Man Who Planted Trees*, stood proudly at the centre of the room. This narrative of planting seeds for future generations echoes Asker’s hopes for her legacy within the fashion industry: “I was able to give it everything I had, and I hope it leaves an impact on the next generation of designers.”
Why it Matters
Kazna Asker’s groundbreaking presentation at London Fashion Week not only redefines how cultural observances can be woven into mainstream fashion but also serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of inclusivity and representation in the industry. By bringing Ramadan into the spotlight, Asker challenges the status quo, fostering dialogue about community and identity within the fashion realm. This moment of celebration and reflection is a significant step towards a more diverse and culturally aware fashion landscape, inspiring future designers to embrace their roots and share their stories with the world.
