In a bold reaffirmation of their brand’s identity, Dolce & Gabbana showcased a striking womenswear collection at Milan Fashion Week, moving beyond past controversies to reclaim their artistic vision. With more than a third of the models representing women of colour and a focus on instantly recognisable pieces, the designers aimed to shift the narrative surrounding their brand.
Shifting the Narrative
While designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana opted not to address the backlash from their previous menswear show, where an all-white casting drew criticism, they clearly sought to redefine the conversation. “Our collections speak to us, our identity, our values,” they stated post-show, emphasising their desire to create pieces that are immediately identifiable as their own. The designers expressed a commitment to their vision, stating, “We never wanted to follow trends.”
In many respects, their latest collection epitomises their long-standing aesthetic—a romanticised interpretation of Italian archetypes. For men, the brand has long celebrated the image of the rugged Italian man, while for women, it has often hinged on the alluring figures of the Sicilian widow and the mistress. This time, however, the runway welcomed a new muse: the Gen Z hipster, adorned in oversized ripped denim and a satin bra-top.
A Palette of Black with Flecks of Colour
The prevailing palette of the collection was predominantly achromatic, punctuated by occasional bursts of colour. Black dominated the runway, with hints of red shoes, scarlet lips, and a charming green doctor’s bag adding vibrancy. The use of faux fur was a conscious choice, aligning with shifting perceptions on fashion sustainability, although Milan and Paris have yet to follow London and New York in banning animal fur entirely.
Accessories played a pivotal role in the collection, featuring crucifix earrings and baker-boy hats reminiscent of the classic Italian film “Cinema Paradiso.” Notably, the brand continued its tradition of blending the sacred with the profane, with almost half of the models revealing their knickers beneath sheer lace garments—a bold statement in the current fashion climate.
Controversies and Resilience
Throughout their illustrious career, Dolce & Gabbana have faced numerous controversies, from accusations of romanticising slavery to dismissive remarks about IVF and LGBTQ+ parenting. Their 2018 campaign debacle in China, which led to significant financial losses, showcased the risks of pushing boundaries in a rapidly evolving cultural landscape.
Despite these challenges, the brand remains a powerhouse, generating nearly €2 billion (£1.8 billion) annually and maintaining its status as a red-carpet favourite. Intriguingly, the latest collection featured tailoring that often appeared reversed, a deliberate choice or simply a quirk of the show.
Celebrities and the Front Row
Fashion shows serve as a vital marketing tool, allowing designers to remind audiences why they are drawn to their creations. However, notable absences from the front row included high-profile fans such as Lauren Sánchez and Melania Trump. Instead, the spotlight shone brightly on Madonna, who arrived fashionably late, adorned in striking teal gloves and took her seat next to Anna Wintour as her iconic music echoed throughout the venue.
Why it Matters
Dolce & Gabbana’s latest collection at Milan Fashion Week not only reaffirms their commitment to their brand identity but also signals a shift towards inclusivity and diversity in their representation. As the fashion industry grapples with evolving societal expectations, the brand’s resilience amidst controversy underscores the delicate balance between artistic expression and cultural sensitivity. The move towards a more varied model representation highlights a growing awareness within the industry, making this showcase a significant moment in both the brand’s history and the wider fashion landscape.
