In a surprising turn of events, Ynyhir, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Powys, Wales, owned by chef Gareth Ward, has been awarded a one-star hygiene rating by food safety inspectors. This has reignited a debate within the UK’s fine-dining industry over the application of health and safety regulations.
According to the report on the Food Standards Agency website, Ynyhir’s management of food safety required “major improvement,” and the cleanliness and condition of the facilities and building also needed “improvement.” The restaurant, known for its 30-course tasting menu starting at £468 per person, serves a range of raw and aged ingredients, including beef, Japanese sashimi, oysters, duck liver, and caviar.
The revelation has sparked a polarised response, with food critic Giles Coren arguing that health and safety rules “don’t really apply” to elite restaurants like Ynyhir, which was named the UK’s best restaurant in 2022 and 2023. Coren’s comments were met with outrage from the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH), who stated that no food business should see itself as “above the law.”
Ward, the outspoken chef-owner, has acknowledged that the food safety officers were “not 100% wrong” and has since installed an additional hand-washing station in the fish preparation area. He has also cited overwhelming paperwork as part of the problem.
Tomono Davies, the founder of Tomono Sushi Party, a London-based sushi-making experience company, suggested that the UK’s food safety regulations are “shockingly difficult” compared to the more lenient approach in Japan, where the level of cleanliness and chef discipline is higher.
The case has highlighted the ongoing tension between the pursuit of culinary excellence and the need to comply with strict health and safety standards. As Ynyhir awaits a re-inspection, the debate over the balance between fine dining and food hygiene continues to simmer within the UK’s culinary landscape.
