As the wine industry in Bordeaux faces the undeniable impacts of climate change, a significant shift is underway. The region is set to officially recognise a new classification of wine known as ‘claret’, which echoes its historic roots while catering to modern consumer preferences. This strategic response aims to align with the growing demand for lighter, fruitier wines amid changing drinking habits in both France and the UK.
A Nod to Tradition
The concept of claret has deep historical ties, dating back to the 12th century when it was first exported to England. Historically, it described a style of Bordeaux wine that was lighter and less tannic than the robust reds that have dominated the market in recent decades. With the Bordeaux protected designation of origin now formally validating this category, producers will soon be able to offer bottles from the 2025 vintage that reflect a shift towards wines meant to be enjoyed chilled, at temperatures between 8-12°C.
“Fresher and fruitier styles are perceived as more relaxed and inclusive,” stated Stéphanie Sinoquet, managing director of the Bordeaux growers’ association. This evolution is not merely a marketing strategy; it is a response to the realities of climate change impacting grape maturity and alcohol content.
Climate Challenges and Consumer Shifts
Bordeaux has been significantly affected by rising temperatures, prompting winemakers to adapt their practices. While some climate effects have posed challenges, others have allowed for the introduction of heat-resistant grape varieties. “Warmer conditions are enabling grapes to achieve better and more consistent ripeness,” Sinoquet noted, but the industry is also grappling with rising alcohol levels that have surged to a commonplace 15%.
Jean-Raymond Clarenc, director at Grands Chais de France, described the new classification as a “strategic response to these environmental shifts.” By adopting shorter maceration times and focusing on freshness over power, producers hope to create wines that are not only balanced but also appealing in an era where consumers are gravitating towards lighter options.
The shift is evident, as the traditional consumption of red wine has declined. Changing lifestyles and warmer weather have led drinkers to seek out lighter, more refreshing alternatives. This trend is not confined to Bordeaux; it reflects a broader movement in wine culture across both France and the UK.
The Price of Prestige
Despite the evolution towards more accessible wines, the Bordeaux region has faced significant market pressures. The soaring prices of classic Bordeaux reds have alienated many consumers, particularly younger generations. Tony Laithwaite, founder of the wine retailer Laithwaites, lamented, “A 50-year boom is over, with vineyards being abandoned and demand collapsing in key markets like China.”
The perception that Bordeaux wines are exclusively for the affluent has become increasingly misaligned with contemporary economic realities. The move towards lighter wines could be a way to reclaim market share, appealing to a demographic that values drinkability over collectability.
Jonathan Kleeman, a sommelier and wine consultant, emphasised that millennials are less interested in accumulating expensive bottles and are instead looking for wines that are ready to drink. “The new category is going to be interesting,” he remarked, noting that it harkens back to the simpler styles of the past.
Navigating New Trends
As Bordeaux embraces this shift, it remains to be seen how consumers will respond to the reintroduction of claret. While some may find the term confusing, Kleeman suggested that the wines are aimed at younger drinkers who may not have a strong association with the word.
Looking ahead, the industry is hopeful that the lighter styles will resonate with a new generation of wine drinkers. As tastes evolve, the Bordeaux region could find itself on the cutting edge of a wine renaissance, reminiscent of its historical past yet firmly rooted in present-day preferences.
Why it Matters
The introduction of the claret classification is more than just a marketing strategy; it is a crucial adaptation to the realities of climate change and shifting consumer preferences. By embracing this change, the Bordeaux region not only preserves its rich heritage but also positions itself to thrive in a competitive global market. The ongoing evolution of wine consumption reflects broader trends in lifestyle and climate, making the industry’s response not only relevant but essential for its survival and growth.
