In the bustling depths of Rome, where ancient caves whisper tales of history, a culinary tradition is being revitalised. Renowned food writer Rachel Roddy shares her delightful take on the classic Roman dish, cacio e pepe, prepared in a unique and engaging manner that highlights the simplicity and flavour of this iconic recipe.
A Culinary Journey Beneath Rome
Hidden beneath the streets of Rome lies Monte Testaccio, an intriguing hill formed entirely from discarded amphorae, remnants of the city’s storied past. Within this fascinating network of caves, one can find a vibrant mix of nightlife, artisanal eateries, and even an Apostolic church. Among these subterranean wonders is a newly reclaimed space run by Vincenzo Mancini, who has transformed a deep cave into an urban ageing facility for fine cheeses and cured meats.
During a recent visit with chefs from London’s Trullo, an unexpected cacio e pepe tasting unfolded, offering a glimpse into the rich history of this beloved dish.
The Origins of Cacio and Formaggio
The terms “cacio” and “formaggio” both refer to cheese, with “cacio” being the older of the two, deriving from the Latin word *caseus*. This ancient term aptly describes the transformation of milk into curds. In contrast, “formaggio” emerged later, rooted in the medieval Latin *formaticum*, which indicates the container used for shaping the curdled milk.
Columella, a Roman agronomist writing around AD 50, famously remarked, “The best cheese is the one made with the least possible amount of medicine!” This sentiment holds true today, as the craft of cheesemaking continues to thrive, with fresh sheep’s milk being transformed into delightful cheeses, such as pecorino, which remains a staple in Roman cuisine.
The Pecorino Legacy
Pecorino cheese, derived from the Latin *pecus* (sheep), has a storied history in the culinary fabric of Rome and Lazio. Initially, pecorino was a generic term for local cheese, but as the product began to spread beyond its origins, specific names were needed to distinguish the multitude of varieties. Pecorino romano, in particular, has garnered acclaim, although the majority of it is now produced on the island of Sardinia.
Vincenzo collaborates with Deroma dairy in Torrita Tiberina, taking wheels of 12-month-aged pecorino romano and maturing them further in his cave. The unique environment fosters a rich bacterial microflora that enhances the cheese’s complex flavours, transforming it over time into a creamy, salty delight.
The Art of Preparing Cacio e Pepe
During the tasting, Vincenzo demonstrated an age-old technique for creating cacio e pepe. He presented a cloth filled with freshly cooked tonnarelli, tossing in generous handfuls of grated 36-month pecorino and freshly ground black pepper. With a theatrical flourish, he shook and rubbed the cloth, allowing the soft cheese to envelop the pasta in a delicious, sandy coating. This method, reminiscent of shepherds preparing the dish centuries ago, not only showcases the ingredients but also adds a delightful element of fun to the dining experience.
For those eager to recreate this dish at home, here’s the recipe:
**Cacio e Pepe in a Cloth (Serves 2)**
– 300g fresh tonnarelli or tagliatelle
– 100g pecorino, grated
– 2 heaped teaspoons whole black peppercorns
– Salt
1. Bring a well-salted pot of water to a boil and cook the pasta until al dente.
2. While the pasta cooks, grate the pecorino finely and coarsely crush the peppercorns.
3. Prepare a large cloth that can be gathered into a bag.
4. Once the pasta is ready, lift it onto the cloth, sprinkle with cheese and pepper, then gather the cloth and shake to mix thoroughly.
5. Serve directly from the cloth or transfer to plates, accompanied by plenty of wine or water.
Why it Matters
The revival of traditional recipes like cacio e pepe not only highlights the culinary heritage of Rome but also fosters a deeper appreciation for the ingredients and techniques that have stood the test of time. As food enthusiasts embrace these age-old practices, they connect with the rich tapestry of history that surrounds each dish, ensuring that the legacy of Italian cuisine continues to thrive in kitchens around the world.
