In a heartfelt homage to the late vegetable expert Charlie Hicks, renowned food writer Rachel Roddy shares a delightful recipe for a salad that showcases the unique flavours of puntarelle, radicchio, celery, apple, and cheese. This dish not only celebrates Hicks’ legacy but also highlights the beauty and versatility of Italian chicory, making it a perfect addition to any dining table.
A Fond Remembrance of Charlie Hicks
Many will fondly recall Charlie Hicks as a stalwart of the vegetable world, particularly from his days on Radio 4’s Veg Talk, which aired from 1998 until 2005. The programme was born from a serendipitous conversation between Sheila Dillon and Hicks, a fourth-generation greengrocer known for his profound knowledge of produce. Their dialogue sparked a wider exploration of the fresh food landscape, with Veg Talk delving into the intricacies of what’s in season and the stories behind the fruits and vegetables we consume.
Despite facing some criticism—broadcast journalist Andy Kershaw once quipped that the show “should have been strangled at birth”—the programme gained a devoted following. Listeners were drawn to Hicks’ wealth of experience, his keen insights from years spent among growers, and his warm, engaging personality. Together with notable guest chefs like Angela Hartnett and Darina Allen, Hicks created a space where food enthusiasts could learn and share their passion for fresh produce.
The Legacy Lives On
Hicks’ influence extended far beyond the airwaves, touching the lives of many chefs and food lovers alike. Carla Tomasi, a celebrated cooking teacher and gardener, reflected on her early days at Frith’s restaurant in Soho, where Hicks was the trusted supplier of exceptional ingredients. His ability to source everything from blood oranges to the elusive puntarelle made him an invaluable ally for chefs seeking the best for their menus.
Through a twist of fate, it was puntarelle that first connected Roddy with Hicks. In a chance phone call, he sought her insights for his market report, sparking a conversation about this distinctive chicory. Puntarelle, with its striking appearance and complex flavours, has become a staple in Roddy’s culinary repertoire, embodying the kind of vibrant cooking that Hicks championed.
Crafting the Perfect Salad
This week’s recipe is a tribute to Hicks, inviting us to recreate his love for fresh, robust flavours. The salad combines the bitterness of puntarelle and radicchio with the crispness of celery and sweetness of apple, all elevated by the richness of cheese.
**Ingredients:**
– 1 head of puntarelle or frisée
– 1 small head of radicchio
– 2 celery stalks
– 1 crisp red apple
– Juice of half a lemon
– 100g of cheese (options include pecorino, grana padano, asiago, or manchego)
– 6 tbsp of olive oil
– 1 tbsp of red wine vinegar
– 2 tsp of runny honey
– A pinch of salt
– 100g of walnut halves
**Instructions:**
1. Begin by preparing the puntarelle. Remove the dark outer leaves, discarding any damaged ones. Carefully separate the inner tubes, trimming off their tough ends and slicing them into short pieces or at an angle.
2. Break the radicchio into leaves, wash them, and dry thoroughly before tearing larger leaves into manageable sizes.
3. For the celery, discard any strings and slice thinly on an angle. The apple should be quartered, cored, and thinly sliced, with lemon juice rubbed on the slices to prevent browning. Use a potato peeler to create thin, uneven slices of cheese.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, red wine vinegar, honey, and a pinch of salt. Add the salad leaves, tossing well, then incorporate the celery, apple, and walnuts before tossing again. Fold in half the cheese, and transfer the salad to a large platter or several small plates, topping it with the remaining cheese. Serve immediately.
Why it Matters
This salad not only serves as a delicious dish but also as a poignant reminder of the impact Charlie Hicks had on the food community. By celebrating the flavours of fresh produce and the stories behind them, we honour a legacy of passion and expertise that continues to inspire cooks and gardeners alike. In a world increasingly disconnected from its food sources, such tributes encourage us to reconnect with the land, the seasons, and the people who bring our meals to life.
