Nestled in the Lombardy region, just a stone’s throw from the Swiss border, Chiavenna is a picturesque town that has long captured the hearts of writers and artists alike. Once a bustling hub for travellers crossing the Alps, this charming locale has faded from the tourist radar, making it an ideal retreat for those seeking tranquillity and beauty away from the crowded hotspots. With its stunning alpine backdrop and a wealth of cultural treasures, Chiavenna promises an unforgettable experience for those who venture off the beaten path.
A Literary Legacy
Chiavenna has an impressive literary pedigree, having enchanted notable figures like George Eliot, who described the town’s enchanting landscapes in 1860, praising its “mountain peaks” and “lovely young flowers.” Similarly, Edith Wharton and Mary Shelley celebrated its beauty, with Shelley depicting it as a “paradise” brimming with vibrant vegetation. Goethe shared the sentiment, referring to Chiavenna as “like a dream.” These glowing tributes reflect the town’s timeless allure, one that continues to beckon visitors today.
An Undiscovered Paradise
Despite its rich history and stunning setting at the foot of the majestic Alps, Chiavenna often finds itself overshadowed by the more famous Lake Como, situated approximately 60 miles to the south. However, those willing to embrace the serenity of Chiavenna will discover a wealth of natural wonders and cultural delights.
During a week-long visit, my husband and I were captivated by the lush chestnut forests, the crystal-clear waters of the River Mera, and the charming architecture that speaks to Chiavenna’s prosperous past as a trading centre. With a plethora of hiking and cycling trails at our fingertips, we revelled in the breathtaking scenery of waterfalls, ancient mule tracks, and abandoned villages.
Culinary Delights and Local Traditions
Our adventure began with a scenic journey from Zurich, where I took a train to St Moritz before traversing the stunning Maloja Pass by bus—an experience that boasts breathtaking views of lakes, peaks, and forests. My husband opted for the train from Milan, enjoying a route that winds along picturesque lakes, including the renowned Lake Como.
On our first day, we embarked on a 6-mile hike along the Via Bregaglia, a celebrated trail leading to the Michelin-starred Lanterna Verde. Here, we savoured freshly caught trout, an unforgettable culinary experience that set the tone for our explorations. Chiavenna’s old centre, with its cobbled alleys and ornate frescoed buildings, revealed a rich history that dates back to the 15th century.
An intriguing aspect of Chiavenna is its crotti—natural caves that were historically used for storing wine and cured meats. Today, these charming establishments serve as restaurants and bars. We indulged in local delicacies such as sciatt, delectable buckwheat fritters filled with cheese, and gnocchi alla chiavennasca, bread-based dumplings drizzled with melted butter and crispy sage.
Natural Wonders and Historical Treasures
Our second day led us to the Parco delle Marmitte dei Giganti, a geological marvel shaped by glacial erosion. Hiking through this natural wonder, we reached the remote village of Uschione, where the only inhabitants today are sheep and the caretaker of the rustic Rifugio Uschione. The serenity of the surroundings offered a perfect backdrop for a restful night.
Back in Chiavenna, we visited the Palazzo Salis B&B, formerly the residence of the renowned painter Angelica Kauffman. Our stay included a sumptuous breakfast served on a terrace with stunning views. Following this, we explored the remarkable Palazzo Vertemate Franchi in nearby Piuro, the only surviving building from a devastating landslide in 1618. Its exquisite marquetry and frescoes are a testament to the town’s rich artistic heritage.
Our explorations continued with a visit to the Acquafraggia waterfalls, a breathtaking spectacle that Leonardo da Vinci himself admired. The double waterfall cascades dramatically, and we found ourselves invigorated by the refreshing mist as we hiked the ancient mule path to the abandoned village of Savogno.
Embracing Chiavenna’s Charm
Our adventure culminated in a visit to Chiavenna’s vibrant Saturday market, where we sampled local gelato and explored the terraced botanical gardens of Parco Paradiso. The highlight of our trip was a romantic dinner at Villa Giade, where we celebrated our wedding anniversary with a locally inspired tasting menu. Over glasses of Nebbiolo wine, we reflected on our enchanting experience, agreeing that Chiavenna had revealed itself as one of the most quietly romantic towns we had ever encountered.
Why it Matters
Chiavenna is more than just a hidden gem; it’s a testament to the beauty of Italy beyond its most famous landmarks. As tourism increasingly gravitates towards well-trodden paths, towns like Chiavenna remind us of the rich cultural and natural treasures waiting to be discovered. Whether you’re an adventurous hiker, a history enthusiast, or simply in search of a serene escape, Chiavenna offers a unique blend of experiences that celebrate both the past and the present. It’s a place where the echoes of literary legends meet the quiet joys of nature, creating an irresistible allure for any discerning traveller.
