As Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) marks its 20th anniversary, it stands as a beacon of innovation and sustainability in the global fashion landscape. Once considered an underdog among the major fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan, and Paris—Copenhagen has steadily risen to prominence, championing homegrown talent and environmental responsibility. This biannual showcase not only elevates Danish brands like Ganni to international acclaim but also pushes the boundaries of what a fashion week can achieve.
A Journey from Skepticism to Success
In its early days, CPHFW faced significant doubt. Founded in 2006 through the merger of two modest trade fairs, the event was initially viewed with scepticism. Cecilie Thorsmark, the current CEO, reflects on the visionary leadership of Eva Kruse, who had the ambition to position Copenhagen as the “fifth fashion city.” Thorsmark recalls, “People found her vision to be unrealistic. Yet, here we are today.” Fast forward to today, and the fashion week has grown into a key event on the global calendar, attracting top editors, buyers, and influencers who flock to the Danish capital.
The evolution of CPHFW is a testament to the resilience and creativity of the Danish fashion industry. Once a niche player, it now ranks as the country’s third-largest export sector, with fashion accounting for 5% of Denmark’s total merchandise exports. The demand from international markets, particularly the United States and Germany, has surged by 84%, showcasing the global appeal of Danish design.
Sustainability at the Forefront
A significant milestone in CPHFW’s history has been its commitment to sustainability. In 2020, the fashion week introduced a stringent sustainability framework that challenged participating brands to meet 18 minimum standards, ranging from the elimination of plastic hangers to guidelines on acceptable textiles. This bold move aimed to combat the prevalent greenwashing in the industry. While several brands initially struggled to comply, today over 30 have embraced these standards, setting a precedent that is inspiring fashion councils in the UK and Germany.
Thorsmark sees the framework as transformative, stating, “It has really underlined the potential of taking a fashion week and transforming it from a showcase event to a catalyst for change.” This shift not only elevates the standards of fashion but also encourages a more conscientious approach to production and consumption.
The Rise of Homegrown Brands
Among the stars emerging from CPHFW is Ganni, a brand that has redefined contemporary fashion with its playful designs, from leopard-print jeans to fruit-themed T-shirts. Valued at £500 million in 2022, Ganni’s journey underscores the vital role that Copenhagen Fashion Week has played in its success. Creative director Ditte Reffstrup credits the event as a pivotal platform, saying, “There is no doubt Copenhagen Fashion Week has been our main stage and helped us to become an international brand.”
The founders of Baum und Pferdgarten, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, share similar sentiments. They reflect on their humble beginnings at the inaugural CPHFW, where local support was paramount. Now, two decades later, their designs are distributed in over 30 countries. “Copenhagen Fashion Week has changed enormously, and it has been a crucial platform for our growth as a brand. It has given us visibility, credibility, and the opportunity to evolve from something very local into something truly international,” Baumgarten explains.
New Opportunities for Emerging Designers
This year, CPHFW is introducing an exciting new initiative aimed at nurturing talent: a homecoming annual slot for brands returning to the Danish runway after showcasing elsewhere. The first brand to participate, Holzweiler, recently presented in London. This initiative was inspired by Cecilie Bahnsen, who chose to celebrate her 10th anniversary in Copenhagen rather than the typical Parisian setting. Thorsmark notes, “The ambition will never be to keep brands in Copenhagen forever but to support them in whatever feels relevant for the brand itself so that they continue to develop and thrive.”
Why it Matters
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s success is not merely a local triumph; it represents a significant shift in the global fashion narrative. As the industry grapples with its environmental impact, CPHFW stands out as a model for integrating sustainability with creativity. By fostering an ecosystem that prioritises both innovation and responsibility, Copenhagen is redefining what it means to be a fashion capital, inspiring cities worldwide to follow suit. In a time when the fashion industry is under scrutiny, CPHFW proves that change is not only possible but essential for the future.