Nestled along the shores of the Firth of Forth, Leith stands as a testament to Edinburgh’s rich maritime heritage, now revitalised as a bustling hub of creativity and gastronomy. Over the past decade, this historic port district has transformed into a lively centre, brimming with independent shops, restaurants, and artistic spaces, drawing locals and visitors alike to experience its unique charm.
A Journey Through Leith’s Evolution
Once a backdrop for Irvine Welsh’s gritty *Trainspotting*, the Leith of today bears little resemblance to its tumultuous past. The area has undergone a significant metamorphosis, shedding its former image to embrace a vibrant community spirit that celebrates diversity and creativity. Twelve years on since my arrival, the transformation has been nothing short of remarkable. With the addition of the tramline from Edinburgh’s city centre in 2023, accessibility to this lively district has soared, making it a must-visit destination.
The heart of Leith pulses with artistic energy, as local residents and newcomers alike contribute to its cultural revival. Recent grassroots campaigns have successfully preserved the essence of the area, including a push to prevent a major chain bookstore from overshadowing independent shops like Argonaut Books, and restoring beloved benches for the area’s daytime socialites.
Culinary Delights: From Michelin Stars to Community Cafés
Leith’s culinary scene is a feast for the senses, offering everything from Michelin-starred dining to cosy cafés and traditional pubs. The past few years have seen an explosion of new dining establishments that reflect the area’s eclectic spirit. Renowned chef Barry Bryson, who launched his restaurant Barry Fish on the Shore in early 2025, describes Leith as a melting pot of old and new. “It’s multicultural, rich and varied, and serves a community of diners, not just one demographic,” Bryson explains. His calm green interiors and inventive dishes, such as trout pastrami and lobster agnolotti, have quickly made Barry Fish a local favourite.
Just a stone’s throw away, Ardfern – a cafe-bar opened by chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband, Shaun – has become a cherished spot for leisurely meals throughout the day. With its non-negotiable hash browns topped with sprout kimchi and fish sauce aioli, Ardfern embodies the supportive and creative atmosphere that permeates Leith.
Adding to the culinary tapestry is Dogstar, a new venture by chef James Murray, who seeks to reforge connections with the local community after years in fine dining. “Choosing Leith was intentional,” he states, highlighting the pride residents have in their neighbourhood. Diners can enjoy dishes prepared with local ingredients, all while soaking in the ambience of a restaurant that truly understands its patrons.
Cultural Hotspots: Art and Community Engagement
Leith’s artistic scene offers an array of experiences that visitors should not miss. A visit to Custom Lane, a collaborative design space housed in the historic Custom House, reveals a treasure trove of workshops, galleries, and a delightful café. The Bard gallery showcases contemporary Scottish design, inviting visitors to engage with high-end artistry in a welcoming setting.
Across the river, Brown’s of Leith – a transformed Victorian warehouse – serves as a multi-use creative space, hosting a variety of food vendors and events. “Leith has a strong sense of identity: independent, creative, and rooted in its history,” says Joseph Radford of Haze, one of the resident vendors. The atmosphere is electric, especially in the early evening, when the space buzzes with laughter and conversation, while patrons indulge in delicious seafood and shareable plates.
The cultural landscape of Leith also includes pop-up events and exhibitions at venues like the Drill Hall and Coburg House Art Studios, ensuring that there’s always something new to explore. Excitingly, the community has secured lottery funding to restore the historic Leith Theatre, a project that promises to breathe new life into this stunning art deco space.
Shopping and Unique Finds
For those looking to shop, Leith boasts an assortment of independent boutiques. Argonaut Books, located in the old train station, is a haven for book lovers, complete with a charming café and regular community events. Art enthusiasts can find unique creations at shops like Logan Malloch, Flux, and Handsel, which feature local artists’ work. For a curated selection of wines, the tiny yet charming Bludge is a must-visit.
Why it Matters
Leith’s renaissance is a compelling example of how community-driven initiatives can rejuvenate a neighbourhood while honouring its history. As the area continues to thrive, it becomes increasingly important for visitors to experience the authentic essence of Edinburgh found in Leith. By supporting local businesses, dining establishments, and creative spaces, one not only savours the flavours and artistry of the district but also contributes to a burgeoning community that celebrates its roots while looking towards the future. Leith is not just a place to visit; it’s a vibrant community waiting to be embraced.
