In a city where culinary trends come and go, London’s beloved pie and mash shops are finding new life amidst a backdrop of nostalgia and social media buzz. Once numbering in the hundreds, these traditional eateries have dwindled to just over 30. However, recent interest from a younger generation, particularly on platforms like TikTok, is sparking a revival of this quintessential Cockney fare.
A Rainy Day at BJ’s
On a dreary rainy afternoon in Plaistow, the sign outside BJ’s Pie and Mash cafe, proclaiming “All pies are made on the premises,” sits folded inside as the pavement outside transforms into a blur of raindrops. Inside, the atmosphere is warm, albeit quiet, with only a couple of customers braving the weather. Nathan Jacobi, the owner, has a reputation for sticking to tradition, refusing to embrace cashless transactions. “They’re the ones missing out,” he quips, gesturing to the cash-only sign. “Because they ain’t getting pie and mash.”
Despite the gloomy weather, Jacobi’s cafe embodies a spirit of resilience. Reports of a pie and mash resurgence have been echoed in notable outlets, with the Washington Post recently highlighting the growing popularity of this working-class staple. “London’s original fast food is making a surprise comeback,” they noted, as establishments like M Manze’s in Bermondsey and Goddards in Greenwich are drawing weekend crowds reminiscent of their heyday.
The Decline and the New Wave
Yet, the narrative isn’t solely one of revival; it’s also a tale of loss. The Pie and Mash Club’s statistics paint a sobering picture, revealing five closures in Greater London in 2025 alone, including the historic Manze’s in Deptford. The closure of long-standing institutions often generates queues of nostalgia rather than new patrons, marking the end of an era rather than the beginning of a new trend.
However, not all is bleak. A few innovative newcomers, such as Barney’s in Walthamstow and Bush Pie & Mash in Shepherd’s Bush, are stepping into the void left by closures. While some shops thrive, others struggle, with food blogger James Dimitri noting a stark divide: “Some places are packed at lunchtimes, while others have a dying atmosphere.”
The Unique Ritual of Pie and Mash
As I venture into BJ’s with my friend Don, a seasoned pie and mash aficionado, the experience feels somewhat daunting. The rules of engagement—no knives, specific ordering customs—create a sense of intimidation for newcomers. “Those things can be slightly off-putting,” Jonathan Nunn, co-editor of the food and culture magazine Vittles, observes, echoing the concerns of many potential customers.
Under Don’s guidance, I opt for the classic “one and one”—a single portion of pie and mash. At BJ’s, Jacobi’s unique twist of offering chips alongside the traditional mash could be considered heretical by purists, yet it’s a testament to his willingness to adapt. “At least I’m saving orangutans around the world,” he jokes, referencing his choice of frying oil.
As the rain subsides, the shop gradually fills with patrons, eager to partake in the comforting familiarity that pie and mash represents. The dish, while simple in nature, is steeped in tradition and served with a side of history.
A Culinary Tradition in Flux
In an era where culinary customs often clash with modern sensibilities, the question remains: can pie and mash shops evolve without losing their essence? Calls for traditional speciality guaranteed (TSG) status led by MP Richard Holden could provide much-needed protection but may also impose constraints. As Jacobi reflects on the evolution of his craft, he acknowledges the necessity of innovation while remaining true to tradition. “Some pie and mash shops never used to do tea,” he notes, highlighting the need for efficiency in serving working-class clientele.
“While the presence of liquor is probably non-negotiable,” Nunn adds, “options like gravy or vegetarian pies might be crucial for the survival of these shops.”
Why it Matters
The resurgence of London’s pie and mash shops speaks to a larger narrative of cultural preservation and community identity. Amidst rapid urban change, these establishments not only offer a taste of history but also serve as gathering places for local residents. As younger generations rediscover these culinary gems, the future of pie and mash remains hopeful, bridging the gap between tradition and modernity. This revival is not just about food; it’s about honouring a rich cultural heritage that deserves to be savoured.
