Mulligatawny may not be a staple on Indian restaurant menus, but this hearty soup has a rich history rooted in British colonialism. Often overlooked, this vibrant dish—whose name derives from the Tamil words for “pepper water”—offers a delightful blend of spices and ingredients that make it a perfect winter warmer. Felicity Cloake’s latest recipe invites us to revisit this classic, showcasing its versatility and the comfort it brings on chilly days.
A Brief History of Mulligatawny
While its origins lie in South India, mulligatawny’s journey to becoming a British favourite is steeped in colonial history. It’s thought to have evolved from the traditional Madrassi broth known as “molo tunny.” Despite its Victorian overtones, this dish has aged gracefully, standing as a testament to the culinary exchanges that occurred during the British Raj.
Traditionally crafted with chicken, mutton, or even goat, the soup is adaptable, allowing cooks to substitute in whatever ingredients they have on hand. Whether you are looking to enjoy a meaty version or a plant-based alternative, mulligatawny is a canvas for creativity.
Ingredients That Make a Difference
To create this comforting soup, you’ll need a selection of fresh vegetables and spices. The essentials include:
– 1 onion
– 1 carrot
– 1 parsnip
– 1 celery stick
– 2 tablespoons of ghee or coconut oil
– 4 garlic cloves
– Fresh ginger
– Spices such as cayenne pepper and Madras curry powder
– Chicken stock or vegetable broth
– Masoor dal (split orange lentils)
With these key ingredients, you can whip up a delightful dish that serves four to six people in just over an hour.
Step-by-Step Cooking Instructions
Creating mulligatawny involves a simple yet fulfilling process:
1. **Prepare the Vegetables**: Start by finely slicing the onion, and dicing the carrot, parsnip, and celery. Keep them separate for now, but do ensure you include at least one sweet vegetable to balance the flavours.
2. **Sweat the Onion**: In a large saucepan, heat your chosen fat over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it softens and turns golden brown—about five minutes.
3. **Add the Remaining Vegetables**: Stir in the carrot, parsnip, and celery, allowing them to cook until tender yet still slightly crunchy. Introduce the garlic and grated ginger, cooking for an additional minute.
4. **Incorporate the Spices**: Sprinkle in the cayenne pepper and curry powder; stir for a minute to release their aromatic qualities.
5. **Combine with Stock and Lentils**: Pour in the chicken stock, then add the chicken (or chosen meat) and masoor dal.
6. **Simmer to Perfection**: Bring the mixture to a simmer, then reduce the heat, cover, and cook gently for about 35 minutes, until the lentils are soft and the meat is cooked through.
7. **Blend and Adjust Flavours**: Remove the meat, blend the soup until smooth, and return the meat to the pot along with any reserved sautéed vegetables. Stir in lemon juice and salt to taste.
8. **Final Touches**: Serve the soup with a sprinkle of fresh coriander and a dollop of plain yoghurt for a creamy finish.
The Versatility of Mulligatawny
One of the beauties of mulligatawny lies in its adaptability. Whether you choose to make it with chicken, lamb, or a completely plant-based approach, this dish can easily be tailored to fit dietary preferences. Plus, it keeps well in the fridge and can be frozen for later enjoyment, making it an excellent option for meal prep.
Why it Matters
Mulligatawny is more than just a bowl of soup; it represents a fusion of cultures and culinary traditions that continue to evolve. In a world where food often serves as a bridge between different cultures, rediscovering dishes like mulligatawny helps us appreciate the richness of our shared history. This spicy soup is a reminder that comfort can come from the past, offering warmth and satisfaction in every spoonful. So, gather your ingredients and dive into this delightful dish that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of winter cuisine.
