Across the United States, a growing number of restaurants are taking a stand against the aggressive tactics of Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE), igniting a passionate conversation about the treatment of immigrant workers. As federal enforcement intensifies, many restaurateurs are finding themselves caught between their principles and the potential backlash from ICE supporters.
A Bold Statement from Kingston
In Kingston, New York, Anton Kinloch, the owner of Lone Wolf, made headlines when he posted a chalkboard message outside his restaurant that read: “WE LOVE ICE IN DRINKS. WE DON’T LOVE ICE IN REAL LIFE. SOLIDARITY ALWAYS.” This act of defiance came in the wake of the tragic killings of two individuals by ICE agents, prompting Kinloch and his business partner, Lisa Dy, to donate a portion of their evening’s earnings to local immigrant advocacy groups. Despite facing harsh weather conditions that already threatened their business, Kinloch refused to remain silent.
However, the reaction was swift and brutal. Within hours, his sign was vandalised and destroyed, and he received a barrage of hate messages online. “I spoke to other business owners in the area, and they said they had received similar threats,” Kinloch recounted. The hostility is not surprising, as many restaurateurs who have spoken out against ICE report experiencing a drop in social media followers, online harassment, and even threats of boycotts.
The Impact of Aggressive Enforcement
Since the return of Trump to the presidency in 2024, the restaurant sector has increasingly found itself in the crosshairs of aggressive immigration enforcement. According to the American Immigration Council, immigrants make up 22% of the restaurant industry’s workforce, a figure that surpasses 30% in states with sizeable immigrant populations like California and Texas. As hostility towards immigrants escalates, many restaurant owners have felt compelled to express their opposition to ICE, despite the risks.
Jamie Kenyon, executive chef and partner at Bottino in New York City, faced immediate backlash after expressing pro-immigrant sentiments on social media. He received threatening phone calls and soon found his restaurant inundated with negative reviews, likely orchestrated by the very individuals who opposed his stance. “When you get good reviews, they’re so precious, and bad reviews are devastating,” Kenyon lamented, highlighting the precarious nature of reputation in the hospitality industry.
A Stand Against Intimidation
In Chicago, co-owner Jason Vincent of Pizza Matta took a firm position against an ICE supporter who had been leaving derogatory messages online. When the individual attempted to dine in the restaurant, Vincent refused service, declaring, “I refuse to cook for fascists and their enablers.” While his stance isn’t formal policy, he believes in the right to refuse service to those who openly support oppressive regimes. “I was raised Jewish, and I was taught from a young age ‘never again’,” he stated, drawing parallels between historical persecution and current treatment of immigrants.
The rising hostility has left many business owners wary of being vocal, especially if they employ immigrants or are immigrants themselves. Cheetie Kumar, co-owner of Ajja in North Carolina, expressed the dilemma: “It’s really important for small businesses to speak up, but I don’t want to put a target on anyone’s back.” The fear is palpable, especially for those who have navigated their own immigration journeys.
The Economic Stakes
The implications of aggressive ICE tactics extend beyond moral dilemmas; they threaten the very fabric of the restaurant industry. Industry leaders warn that deporting millions of immigrant workers would lead to catastrophic consequences. Sean Sherman, chef-owner of Owamni, emphasised that immigrants have long been the backbone of the food system in America. “You can’t just pull all of this massive workforce out and expect these systems to continue to work,” he said.
In Minneapolis, where ICE has launched aggressive operations, local restaurants have reported sales declines of up to 60%. Sherman noted, “At this rate, every restaurant in Minneapolis would probably be shut down in two months.” Similar patterns have emerged in Chicago, where Vincent’s restaurant suffered its slowest night on record following a high-profile ICE operation.
Why it Matters
As restaurants grapple with the dual challenges of maintaining business and standing up for their values, the broader implications of ICE’s actions cannot be overstated. These establishments are more than just places for food; they serve as vital community hubs that reflect the diversity and resilience of the American spirit. The current climate of intimidation not only endangers immigrant workers but threatens the very essence of the hospitality industry, which relies on inclusivity and solidarity. As more businesses choose to lend their voices to this critical issue, the fight for immigrant rights and against oppressive systems continues to gain momentum, urging society to reconsider what it means to truly stand in solidarity.
