In a world where Italian cuisine is often reduced to the likes of carbonara and Bolognese, celebrated chef Gennaro Contaldo is on a mission to showcase the rich tapestry of flavours that his homeland has to offer. Through his latest cookbook, *Hidden Italy*, Contaldo invites food lovers to embark on a culinary journey that reveals long-forgotten regional dishes and family recipes steeped in history.
A Culinary Journey from Coast to Coast
Contaldo, who grew up on the picturesque Amalfi Coast before making the UK his home over fifty years ago, embodies the spirit of Italian gastronomy. With an infectious enthusiasm, he admits, “I didn’t know myself” about the vast diversity of Italian cuisine until he began his research. He highlights the astonishing fact that there are around 600 known shapes of pasta, with countless variations crafted by families throughout Italy.
His book is meticulously organised into four sections, each dedicated to a different geographical area: central Italy, the islands, the north, and the south. Contaldo’s goal? To demonstrate that Italian food is so much more than the familiar staples.
“It’s not just carbonara, Bolognese, cacio e pepe,” he insists, emphasising the need to preserve these culinary gems for future generations.
The Hunt for Authentic Recipes
Uncovering these hidden dishes was no small feat. Contaldo spent nearly two years researching and connecting with families across Italy to compile recipes that are often overlooked. “Nobody’s writing any books about those original recipes and where they come from,” he laments. Yet he reassures that these treasured dishes haven’t vanished—they simply remain tucked away in the homes of families who continue to honour their culinary heritage.
At 77, Contaldo is acutely aware of the shifting tides of culture and cuisine. “Generations are changing, and we don’t want all these beautiful recipes to get lost,” he stresses. His efforts to document these traditions aim to ensure that the stories behind each dish are not forgotten.
The Heart of Italian Cooking
Take, for instance, the delightful pasticcio di pasta alla ferrarese—an intricate pasta pie hailing from the Renaissance era. Made with tortiglioni or rigatoni, it’s layered with a rich meat ragu and béchamel sauce before being encased in pastry. Contaldo fondly describes how Italians share recipes as a form of communication, a way to express love through food.
“It’s not just spaghetti and a glass of wine. Italy is an emotion,” he states, underscoring the deep connection Italians have with their culinary practices.
The act of making fresh pasta is a cherished tradition in Italian households, and Contaldo encourages everyone to give it a go. “It’s so easy,” he says, breaking it down into simple steps that anyone can follow. “Ordinary flour, mix with water—if you do it with eggs, one egg for 100 grams of flour is all you need.”
Once prepared, this fresh pasta can serve two or even three people, making it not only delicious but also budget-friendly.
The Importance of Quality Ingredients
Contaldo is a staunch advocate for quality, urging pasta aficionados to be discerning about what they purchase. “You have to be very careful when you buy pasta,” he warns, noting that not all pasta is created equal. He recommends seeking out authentic Italian brands that use high-quality ingredients.
Cooking pasta al dente is another vital part of the Italian experience. “You chew it longer when it’s inside your mouth; it tastes better, you digest it better,” he explains. In contrast to the hurried British dining style, Contaldo champions the Italian way of savouring each bite and enjoying the moment.
The Cultural Significance of Food
Contaldo’s dedication to preserving Italian culinary culture is palpable. He believes that while there are many Italian restaurants in London, the true essence of Italian cooking can often be lost in translation. “I want to remember where I came from,” he says, highlighting his desire to honour his roots while sharing the beauty of Italian cuisine with a wider audience.
From the Amalfi Coast’s simple yet flavourful stewed squid and potatoes to the rich, evocative flavours of bucatini with anchovies and breadcrumbs, Contaldo’s recipes are steeped in history and nostalgia.
Why it Matters
Gennaro Contaldo’s *Hidden Italy* serves not only as a cookbook but as a vital reminder of the cultural heritage embedded within Italian cuisine. By bringing these lesser-known dishes to light, he encourages a deeper appreciation of food as an expression of identity and a vessel for storytelling. In a rapidly changing world, preserving these culinary traditions is essential, ensuring that the flavours of Italy continue to enrich our tables and our lives for generations to come.
