Milan’s prestigious fashion house, Versace, is set to usher in a new era with the appointment of Belgian designer Pieter Mulier as its creative director, effective from 1 July. This pivotal announcement was made by the Prada Group, the brand’s parent company, who sees Mulier as the visionary to propel Versace into its next chapter.
A New Vision for Versace
Mulier, who has been steering the creative ship at French fashion brand Alaïa, is no stranger to high fashion. His illustrious career includes invaluable experience as an associate to renowned Belgian designer Raf Simons, where he honed his craft at esteemed labels such as Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, and Dior. His background in architecture, gleaned from the Institute Saint-Luc in Brussels, adds a unique dimension to his design philosophy, blending structural integrity with artistic flair.
In assuming this influential role, Mulier will report directly to Lorenzo Bertelli, Versace’s executive chair and the heir apparent to the Prada Group. Bertelli expressed his confidence in Mulier’s capabilities, stating, “When we considered the Versace acquisition, we identified Pieter Mulier as the right person for the brand. We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue with the brand’s strong legacy. We are excited to begin this journey together.”
The Legacy He Inherits
Mulier takes the reins from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after only one collection. This quick turnover highlights the challenges faced by Versace in recent times, and Mulier’s appointment is seen as a strategic move to stabilise and reinvigorate the brand. His predecessor’s brief tenure underscores the pressing need for a creative leader who can navigate the complexities of modern fashion while honouring the house’s illustrious past.
British Vogue has hailed Mulier as a designer capable of rejuvenating brands that are culturally significant yet commercially struggling. His tenure at Alaïa was marked by a resurgence of the brand’s identity, with notable creations such as the viral mesh ballet flats and the sought-after Le Teckel bag, showcasing his talent for marrying innovation with wearability.
Recognition and Influence
Mulier’s impact on the fashion industry was recognised last autumn when supermodel Naomi Campbell—the quintessential muse of Alaïa—honoured him at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his respect and tribute to the late founder Azzedine Alaïa. This accolade not only reflects Mulier’s design prowess but also his ability to connect with the legacy of those who came before him.
As he embarks on this new chapter with Versace, Mulier’s focus will likely be on harnessing the brand’s iconic aesthetic while injecting fresh, contemporary ideas. His background and experiences position him well to engage with Versace’s rich history, promising a future that honours its roots while pushing boundaries.
Why it Matters
The appointment of Pieter Mulier as creative director is a significant moment for Versace, a brand synonymous with boldness and glamour. In an industry that is in constant flux, Mulier’s ability to balance tradition with innovation will be crucial in steering Versace into a new era. As fashion houses grapple with changing consumer preferences and sustainability concerns, Mulier’s fresh vision could reinvigorate the brand and redefine its place in the luxury market, making it a key player for years to come. The industry will be watching closely as Mulier’s creative journey unfolds.
