In the picturesque Gulf Islands of British Columbia, a remarkable initiative is underway as the Cowichan Tribes work to revive traditional clam harvesting practices that have sustained their community for millennia. Crysta Charlie, a member of the Cowichan Tribes, recently embarked on her first clam-digging adventure, unearthing an impressive s’axwa’—the Hul’q’umi’num term for butter clam—symbolising a reconnection to her heritage and the age-old customs of her ancestors.
A Journey into Tradition
On a crisp late April day, Crysta Charlie wielded a pitchfork against the coarse shoreline, determined to uncover the bounty beneath the sand. Initially greeted only by fragments of seashells accumulated over centuries, she persisted, expanding her search until her efforts were rewarded with the discovery of a sizable s’axwa’, a clam that has long been a staple in the diets of the Cowichan Nation.
“My grandpa gets clams all the time, so I thought it would be easy,” she chuckled, acknowledging the challenge of her first harvest. “But today proved me wrong. It’s not easy.” This experience is part of a broader programme initiated by the Cowichan Tribes’ lands and natural resources department, focusing on the restoration of traditional clam beds and sea gardens that once thrived along the coast.
Reviving an Ancient Knowledge
Historically, the Cowichan Tribes and other Coast Salish peoples perfected the art of shoreline aquaculture, crafting extensive rock seawalls that transformed coastal areas into fruitful gardens. These clam beds were not only vital for sustenance but also served as community gathering spots. “It was like our grocery store,” remarked Jared Qwustenuxun Williams, an Indigenous chef and educator passionate about food sovereignty and cultural revival.
The programme aims to not only restore these clam beds but also enhance food security for the Cowichan community. Biologist Tim Kulchyski, along with his son Simon, actively participates in the harvesting efforts along the Cowichan Estuary, an area that once provided a rich variety of traditional foods and medicines.
“There were so many clams and oysters that you wouldn’t have to worry about where your next meal was coming from,” Tim reflected. Unfortunately, the arrival of European settlers in the mid-1800s drastically altered this landscape, introducing diseases that devastated the Cowichan population, which plummeted from approximately 15,000 to around 800 by the early 1900s.
Restoration Efforts and Community Involvement
The Cowichan Tribes’ commitment to revitalising their coastal heritage traces back to the 1970s when aerial surveys revealed ancient rock structures in the bays of southeastern Vancouver Island. Among these, an 800-metre-long retaining wall in Fulford Harbour was identified as evidence of the Tribes’ stewardship that dates back nearly 4,500 years.
Jacob Cook, who was appointed as the sea gardens restoration co-ordinator two years ago, expressed his reverence for these historical structures. “It’s a very special place,” he said, recalling the awe he felt upon discovering the remnants of his people’s ancestral practices.
Today, the clam beds where Crysta Charlie dug are among the few areas in B.C.’s South Coast that remain relatively free from pollution and harmful red tide biotoxins. The Cowichan Tribes maintain the confidentiality of their clam and sea garden locations to protect them from overharvesting.
The restoration programme unfolds in two phases: summer months are dedicated to the rehabilitation of ancient sites in collaboration with the WSÁNEC Leadership Council and Parks Canada, while winter focuses on responsible harvesting practices. These efforts empower community members like Charlie to reconnect with their land and revive traditional collection methods.
Sustainable Practices for a Healthier Ecosystem
Kulchyski emphasised the importance of controlled harvesting, which involves carefully rotating and loosening the sand to foster a healthy environment for clam growth. This practice not only enhances the habitat but also contributes to a sustainable ecosystem, resulting in larger clams that provide a sweet and satisfying taste.
As Tim savoured a freshly prepared sea urchin, he reflected on the lessons learned from decades of studying marine ecosystems. “You start to learn the places that you should protect and what type of use you should have,” he said. This wisdom is crucial for guiding the community into a sustainable future.
Why it Matters
The revitalisation of traditional shellfish harvesting by the Cowichan Tribes is more than just a return to ancient practices; it represents a significant step towards reclaiming food sovereignty and cultural identity. By restoring their connection to the land and its resources, the Cowichan community is not only preserving their heritage but also ensuring the health and sustainability of their ecosystem for generations to come. This initiative serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of Indigenous knowledge in fostering environmental stewardship and resilience in the face of modern challenges.
