In a remarkable fusion of tradition and technology, India’s silk sector is experiencing a renaissance, driven by passionate individuals like Dr. Jolapuram Umamaheswari and innovative enterprises such as Asho Farms. With a rich heritage in sericulture, the industry is not only adapting to modern challenges but is also leveraging cutting-edge technology to enhance productivity and sustainability.
From Scientist to Silk Producer: Umamaheswari’s Journey
Dr. Jolapuram Umamaheswari, a former scientist who once thrived in Singapore’s research environment, made a bold decision six years ago to return to India and embark on a new venture in silk farming. “When I came back to India, I was jobless but I wanted to be my own boss,” she recalls. Her exploration led her to sericulture, a meticulous process that combines biology with business acumen.
Silk farming involves nurturing silkworms, which feast on mulberry leaves, and harvesting their cocoons to extract the coveted silk fibres. Umamaheswari describes her transition: “Silk farming sits at a rare intersection of biology, precision, and business. It didn’t feel like I was leaving science; it felt like I was applying it differently.”
However, the initial phase was anything but easy. Facing outbreaks of disease, inconsistent yields, and a steep learning curve, she relied on her scientific expertise to navigate the challenges. “Over time, small improvements in hygiene, feeding practices, and environmental control began to compound into better survival rates and higher-quality cocoons,” she explains. Today, her farm in Andhra Pradesh produces ten crops of raw silk annually, each requiring a growth cycle of 25 to 30 days, generating around $1,000 (£760) a month.
“The result is like a steady, almost salary-like income. That’s what makes sericulture unique; if managed well, it provides regular returns, not just seasonal income,” Umamaheswari adds with pride.
Technology Meets Tradition at Asho Farms
Modern sericulture is undergoing a seismic shift, as highlighted by Krishna Tomala, founder of Asho Farms. This innovative farm has embraced the latest technological advancements, from the production of silkworm eggs to the careful rearing of cocoons. “A silkworm grows nearly a thousand times in just 25 days. But its success depends completely on temperature, humidity, and good-quality leaves,” Tomala emphasises.
Previously reliant on manual monitoring, Asho Farms now employs sensors and automated systems to manage an array of environmental controls, including fans, heaters, and humidifiers. “I use computer vision and machine learning. Cameras can detect early signs of diseases in silkworm larvae with over 99% accuracy, which helps us act quickly to prevent widespread infection,” he explains.
At Asho, the meticulous sorting of cocoons is standard, with workers assessing quality, size, and colour to ensure that only the finest silk makes it to market.
India’s Unique Position in the Global Silk Market
As the world’s second-largest producer of silk, trailing only China, India boasts an impressive diversity of silk products. “India is the only country where all four commercial varieties of silk—Mulberry, Tasar, Eri, and Muga—are available,” states Manthira Moorthy, a director at the Central Silk Board. Notably, Muga silk holds a special place in Indian heritage, primarily sourced from Assam and Meghalaya.
Looking ahead, the industry is exploring genome editing techniques to develop robust silkworm varieties. “We have entered a new era of research focusing on genome editing. In collaboration with international partners like Japan, we have developed disease-resistant silkworm varieties,” Moorthy adds.
Additionally, the Central Silk Board is investigating how to utilise by-products from silk production. For instance, approximately 2kg of dried silkworm pupae are left over for every kilo of raw silk produced, which is rich in protein and is being repurposed as feed for poultry and fish.
Challenges and Opportunities Ahead
Satheesh Kannur, who operates a company in the final stage of sericulture—turning cocoons into raw silk yarn—raises concerns about the industry’s future. “Technology is transforming silk reeling from a slow, manual craft into a fast, precision-driven industry, while solar power is quietly making it more sustainable,” he notes. However, he warns that Indian farmers may struggle to meet the increasing demand for silk. “Without cocoons, there is no silk. The entire industry depends on farmers. Many second-generation farmers are not willing to continue silk farming, and landholdings are often small. For this industry to grow, we need larger areas for cultivation,” he explains.
Contrary to this concern, the Central Silk Board remains optimistic. Despite a decline in the number of farmers, advancements in rearing techniques and scientific support have led to significantly improved yields per acre.
Back in Andhra Pradesh, Umamaheswari is not resting on her laurels. She plans to incorporate a low-tech addition to her farm by building a cow shed. This will not only provide an extra income stream through milk but also allow the use of cow manure to fertilise her mulberry plants. “Even small improvements in technique can significantly increase yield and quality, making it a rewarding field for someone who likes to apply knowledge practically,” she concludes.
Why it Matters
The evolution of India’s silk industry exemplifies the power of innovation in preserving traditional crafts. As the sector embraces modern technologies, it not only enhances productivity and sustainability but also empowers individuals like Umamaheswari to redefine their futures. This revitalisation of sericulture is crucial not just for the livelihoods of farmers but also for maintaining India’s rich cultural heritage in silk production, ensuring that this ancient art continues to thrive in a modern world.
