The fashion world mourns the loss of legendary designer Valentino Garavani, who passed away at the age of 93. However, his most iconic creation – the “Valentino red” – continues to captivate and inspire, even in the wake of his death.
Valentino’s signature shade of scarlet, with a hint of blue, has been a defining part of his legacy for over six decades. The designer first introduced the vibrant hue in his debut collection in 1959 with the “Fiesta” dress, a strapless gown adorned with roses across a full skirt. Valentino was famously inspired by the sight of an older woman at the opera wearing a striking red dress that stood out from the crowd.
This impact of the “Valentino red” led the designer to incorporate the colour throughout his illustrious career. Fashion curator Alistair O’Neill notes that the specific shade mattered, as it “works across a range of skin colours and makes nearly all women look great.” He attributes this to the colour’s purity and luminosity.
In a tribute to the late designer, the cover of Vogue Italia’s February issue will feature a take on the iconic Valentino red. Donatella Versace also donned a bright red suit when paying her respects at Valentino’s funeral in Rome on Friday, where most attendees, including Anne Hathaway and Anna Wintour, wore black.
Even Damian Hurley, the son of actress Elizabeth Hurley, accessorised his outfit with a vibrant red scarf, showcasing the enduring appeal of the Valentino red.
Fashion writer Charlie Porter argues that Valentino’s red is distinct from the more systematic approach to colour that emerged with the rise of Pantone in the early 1960s. “[Valentino’s] red is a red with real sensitivity and depth and human feeling because it’s before this time of ‘let’s choose a red’, mechanical colour,” he explains.
The Valentino red is also part of a broader resurgence of the colour in fashion. The “unexpected red theory,” which first gained traction in interiors, has spilled into wardrobes, with red scarves becoming a familiar sight at fashion weeks.
While some believe the Valentino red will remain closely tied to the designer’s legacy, others argue that the colour transcends its association with him. Fashion historian Kasia St Clair suggests that red clothing has long been a symbol of luxury, power, and status, and its impact on us may have a biological dimension.
Regardless of the debate, it’s clear that Valentino’s iconic red has left an indelible mark on the fashion world, and it will continue to captivate and inspire for years to come.
